Read Part 2 of the guide here, which covers the Bay of Fires, Freycinet National Park, and Port Arthur/Tasman National Park.
Tassie, A Home Away from Home
As much of the Northern Hemisphere snuggled up for winter, we drove a thousand miles across Tasmania under perfect summer skies, in our cozy motorhome we called home for ten incredible days.
Tasmania gave us all that nature had to offer. We encountered a sudden hailstorm at Cradle Mountain, strong gales whipping up the Tasman Sea into a restless frenzy, and even a raging bushfire near the Freycinet Peninsula which ominously lit up the night sky as we slept warily. Thankfully, our epic journey across this spectacular island state also took us across undisturbed white sand beaches and glistening blue waters, through pristine ancient rainforests and breathtaking alpine landscapes.
Whether we were staring down the roaring waves on the rugged West Coast, or standing on the picturesque white sand beaches lining the entire East Coast, we were always in proximity to one of Tasmania’s many beautiful towns, each bursting with their own unique charm, identity, and history. We also shared much of our trip with Tasmanian wildlife, where kangaroos, echidnas, wallabies, quolls, and the eponymous Tasmanian devils roamed freely. Where pademelons huddled in the warmth of our motorhome’s undercarriage and endangered shorebirds quietly shared the same peaceful sunsets as we did.
The sights were unforgettable, and the experiences perhaps even more so. I will always remember scrambling up massive granite boulders and narrow crevasses on Mt. Amos for sweeping views of the magnificent Wineglass Bay (possibly the best view in all of Tasmania). At Cradle Mountain, we summited Marions Lookout under azure skies, only to hurriedly put on our disposable ponchos and scurry down the mountain to escape a sudden hailstorm. I will never forget the taste of that delicious seafood chowder at The Lobster Shack, or the satisfaction of devouring our first takeaway dinner in our motorhome (a delightful Italian meal from Hobart’s Da Angelo Ristorante).
Our first-time motorhome experience was absolutely splendid as well. It was the perfect crossover of introversion and adventurousness as we enjoyed sumptuous meals on remote beaches and afternoon naps in the middle of rainforests. In the company of seasoned locals with camping in their blood, we set up camp every night right at the doorstep of wilderness, in a small but cozy space we called home for ten days. On the very first evening, we unpacked our suitcases into the compact shelves of our new home, and then left them untouched until the very last night.
In short, we found Tasmania to be the perfect road trip destination. Compared to mainland Australia, Tasmania is but a tiny island state. Yet, there is an incredible density of extraordinary sights and amazing experiences at every turn, with excellent infrastructure supporting vehicles of all shapes and sizes. I would gladly spend a year exploring every nook and cranny of Tasmanian cities and its countryside, and I assure you that you would have no regrets spending a week or two in Tasmania – or as Australians affectionately call it, Tassie.
Click to jump to each section
Itinerary Overview
We started our 10 day journey in Hobart. Going in a clockwise direction, we first headed to Strahan on the rugged West Coast before driving inland to Cradle Mountain. We then drove east, via Launceston, to the glorious Bay of Fires on the sunny East Coast. Next, we travelled down south to Freycinet National Park and then Port Arthur, before completing the loop back in Hobart.
Route Map
| Day | Base / Accommodations | Approx. Driving Distance to Next Town* |
| 0 | Hobart | – |
| 1 | Strahan | 300km / 5.5h |
| 2 | Strahan | – |
| 3 | Cradle Mountain | 150km / 3h |
| 4 | Cradle Mountain | – |
| 5 | St Helens (via Launceston) | To Launceston: 150km / 3h To St Helens: 160km / 3h |
| 6 | St Helens | – |
| 7 | Coles Bay | 120km / 2h |
| 8 | Coles Bay | – |
| 9 | Port Arthur | 210km / 3.5h |
| 10 | Hobart | 90km / 1.5h |
Trip Duration
10 days in Tasmania proved to be quite comfortable for a circuit of Tasmania’s essential attractions. We decided to budget for a two-nights stay in most places so that we would have at least one full day to explore an area before heading off the next day, and also as a buffer for inclement weather (which made a world of difference in Cradle Mountain). I reckon you would be able to “complete” the same loop in eight days, but it would feel rushed.
Ideally, with 12-13 days, I would spend two additional nights in Hobart to explore the city, the nearby Mount Field, Maria Island and/or Bruny Island. Alternatively, you could spend a night in Launceston to explore Tasmania’s second largest city and also Northern Tasmania, or one additional night in Port Arthur to fully explore the Port Arthur Historic Site.
However, if you only have 7-8 days, you would probably need to choose between the West Coast or East Coast. Personally, I would suggest going as far west as the must-go Cradle Mountain, and then heading back to the East Coast, where you can visit Bay of Fires, Frecyinet National Park, Tasman National Park, Maria Island, and more. The weather is generally more pleasant and milder on the East Coast, with surrounding towns having more amenities as well.
General Tips for Driving in Tasmania
- Download the TasALERT app – TasALERT is Tasmania’s official emergency information platform, providing real time information for you to plan your day ahead. Conditions can change very rapidly in a place as wild as Tasmania. Check the app from time to time to see if there are any emergency situations happening around you. When we were there, we were warned about very strong gales and even an ongoing bushfire very near us.
- Pre-purchase your Parks Pass – A valid parks pass is required for entry to all of Tasmania’s national parks, including Cradle Mountain and Freycinet National Park – two of the most beautiful places in Tasmania. There are several options available. Unless you’re travelling alone or only visiting one national park, the clear choice would be the “Holiday Passes – all Tasmanian national parks for up to 2 months” pass with the AUD 95.50 “Per vehicle (up to 8 people)” option. Print out the park pass and put it at your windshield at all times.
- Adhere to the speed limits – Tasmanians mostly adhere strictly to posted speed limits (with exceptions, of course). You will see vehicles travelling exactly at the speed limit, no more no less, on a straight and empty road. I was pulled over near Cradle Mountain for exceeding the speed limit, as my vehicle speed drifted over the limit while going downhill. Use your speed limiter whenever you can.
- Wildlife on roads – The first signs you will see upon landing in Tasmania will probably be ones which warn you about the dangers of wildlife on roads and about the dangers of driving at night. Driving in the day is relatively safe, but you will see roadkill every couple of hundred meters – mostly from roadkill incidents the night before, which should remind you that this is a very real danger, both to the animals and to yourself. Stay alert and be prepared for a wallaby to jump out of the bushes, especially in areas with thicker vegetation closer to the roads.
- Driving at night – Most roads in Tasmania are generally in good condition and have adequate reflectors. Hence, warnings not to drive at night pertain more to roadkill incidents from wildlife emerging after dusk. Avoid driving at night but if you must, turn on your high beam and halve your speed. We appreciated the long daylight hours in summer as it meant that we could be walking on a remote beach at 8pm and then reaching back to camp at 9pm, with the skies still relatively bright.
- Essentials shops close early – In most of the towns you will be stopping over at, barring the large cities like Launceston and Hobart, shops close very early at 5-6pm. Do stock up on the essentials at larger supermarkets in the event you find yourself caught out in a small town without any options.
- Parking is a breeze – With the exception of central Hobart and Launceston, parking is a breeze across Tasmania. Most major attractions have a dedicated carpark with plenty of space, free parking, and support for large vehicles.
- Book your accommodations early – Available options range from low-budget rooms to ultra luxurious mansions. However, supply is low and demand is high, especially during peak seasons and in areas without much real estate (like Cradle Mountain). Hence, book your accommodations early. If you’re driving a motorhome like we did, I found Big4 Holidays Parks and Discovery Parks to be affordable and comfortable, with all the basic amenities you’d require. Most of the time, at least one of the two would be available in or near major cities/towns/attractions, with options ranging from overnight parking lots to multi-room cabins. We opted for powered motorhome parking lots, with en-suite bathrooms as far as possible.
I’ve split the detailed itinerary section below into two.
Part 1 here covers Hobart, Strahan, Cradle Mountain, and Launceston, with more rugged nature, unpredictable weather, but a wonderful experience nonetheless.
Part 2 covers Bay of Fires, Freycinet National Park, and Port Arthur/Tasman National Park, where we had glorious summer skies (and more pretty pictures) down the entire East Coast. You can find the link to Part 2 here.
Most of the key places mentioned below come with an embedded Google Maps link for you to easily add to your own map.
Day 0: Arriving in Hobart
If you’re an international visitor, your port of entry to Tasmania will probably be Hobart International Airport, via a domestic flight from one of mainland Australia’s major cities. We flew in on a Singapore Airlines codeshare flight (operated by Virgin Australia) from Melbourne.
Located at the mouth of River Derwent, which ultimately empties into the Tasman Sea, Hobart is the capital city of Tasmania. It is quintessentially Australian and has all the amenities of a major city, but without the crowds we’ve come to expect of Sydney or Melbourne. There are plenty of things to do in Hobart, but if you are prioritizing nature and are short on time, there is no need to spend too much time here. Explore the streets, enjoy a sumptuous dinner, and get a good night’s rest before embarking on your road trip proper the next day.
We picked up our cozy motorhome near the airport before going on our first supply run en-route to the Hobart waterfront area in central Hobart. We enjoyed exploring the Salamanca Place and Battery Point areas before retreating to the comfort of our motorhome in one of Tasmania’s many caravan parks.
Mount Wellington
Mount Wellington (also known as Kunanyi in an indigenous Tasmanian language) is an absolute must-visit if you’re in Hobart. Rising to 1,271 meters above sea level, Mount Wellington gave us sweeping panoramic views of Hobart and beyond, which served as the perfect introduction to Tasmania.
A leisurely thirty minutes drive from Central Hobart took us straight to the summit of Mount Wellington. We visited Mount Wellington in December – at the beginning of summer – and yet there were residual traces of snow around us, with cold winds battering us the moment we stepped out of our car (despite how it sounds, we really enjoyed those moments). There were also exhibits in the cozy Pinnacle Observation Shelter with pictures of Mount Wellington completely covered in snow in winter, so do look out for the weather when you’re here. Catching the sunset here would have been absolutely amazing as well.
The boardwalks and viewing platforms along the edge of Mount Wellington were easily accessible, right across the massive parking lot, making this perfect first warm-up attraction before you embark on Tasmania’s countless hikes and bushwalks.
Salamanca Place / Salamanca Market / Battery Point
After collecting the keys to our motorhome, we had a couple of hours on our first evening to explore Hobart. There was no better place to get started than in the cultural hub of Hobart – Salamanca Place in the historic Battery Point district, where sandstone buildings steeped in rich history housed a variety of modern shops and restaurants.
The world-renowned Salamanca Market also resides in Battery Point. This street market features over 350 stalls with a myriad of Tasmanian products, but it only opens on Saturday, from 8:30am to 3:00pm. Unfortunately we were unable to catch it this time round. We’ve read only marvellous things about Salamanca Market, so it will definitely be on our top priority the next time we’re in Hobart.
Battery Point also houses many accommodation options and restaurants, which was exactly what we needed after a long flight. We craved an authentic Italian meal and ordered risotto and a pizza to-go from the very popular Da Angelo Ristorante, which we savoured within the comfort of our swanky new motorhome.
Hobart Waterfront
While waiting for Da Angelo Ristorante to serve the hordes of customers ahead of us, we took a stroll along Hobart’s waterfront, soaking in the tranquility of moored yachts and circling seagulls at Elizabeth Street Pier. Several cafes and seafood restaurants lined the harbour, with interesting museums just across the street, including the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery and the Tasmania Maritime Museum.
Other things to do in Hobart
Stock up on supplies at Eastlands Mall’s Coles and Kmart: There are plenty of options when it comes to supermarkets and stores in Hobart, but if you’re picking up your car near Hobart Airport like we did, the Eastlands mall would be the ideal first stop as it is situated just off the main highway leading into Central Hobart. There are many other shops (including a huge Kmart) where you can do your grocery or souvenir shopping – one of the most satisfying aspects of a road trip! On our final morning, we returned here again to pick up some snacks and souvenirs right before we returned our motorhome.
Day 1: Driving from Hobart to Strahan
We frontloaded our heaviest day of driving by heading directly from Hobart to Strahan on the West Coast, five hours away. On the way out, we stopped by Mount Wellington for panoramic views of Hobart, before pushing on to Hungry Wombat Cafe at Derwent Bridge for a late lunch by 4:30pm. Next, we would drive straight to Strahan, with a quick stopover in the small historic mining town of Queenstown. With the long summer days in December, we just needed to reach Strahan by 8:30pm to catch the sunset at the west-facing Ocean Beach.
Lunch at Hungry Wombat Cafe
Having enjoyed Mount Wellington slightly too much, we had to skip Mount Field National Park in favour of making it to Hungry Wombat Cafe at Derwent Bridge before closing time at 4:30pm. Aside from its adorable name, this cafe bisects the long drive from Hobart to Strahan, making it the perfect stop for a lunch break.
Driving past grazing sheep and rural localities, we reached the Hungry Wombat Cafe just a few minutes before 4pm, thinking that we clutched it. Alas, we walked into an empty restaurant with all its chairs turned upside down. By a stroke of luck, the kind staff informed us that fish and chips were still available after checking with the kitchen, and we proceeded to make the most decisive snap call in history.
Starving, we were rewarded with the perfect lunch break in our motorhome – crispy, fresh, golden-brown battered fish and chips and a hot cup of latte, with our motorhome doing a fantastic job of keeping us warm and toasty amidst the cold drizzle outside.
Queenstown
The Red Dead Redemption-esque Queenstown makes for a good quick final stop before Strahan where you can stretch your legs and replenish your supplies at the local IGA supermarket or the Railway Express General Store. If en-route to Strahan, I would suggest only a brief stop (if at all, especially during days with shorter daylight hours). We were able to get a bird’s eye view of the entire town at the Queenstown Steel Road Sign vantage point before entering the town.
Our stopover in Queenstown was on a cold and gloomy afternoon, with low-hanging clouds blanketing the entire valley. At 6pm, the only shop which remained open was the local IGA supermarket – a stark reminder that most shops close way before dusk in summer. We stretched our legs and explored the town, which had only one main street with the Railway Express General Store, the Queenstown post office, and some supermarkets. Around the corner was a little park, right beside the very non-descript Magistrates Court building, and throughout our little stroll, we saw nary another soul.
We made it to Strahan before sunset, where we set up camp and called it a day. With overcast skies and an early reveille the next day (to catch the 8:30am Gordon River Cruise departure time), we decided to leave Ocean Beach for tomorrow.
Day 1-2: Strahan / Gordon River Cruise
The main reason why we stayed two nights in Strahan was because we wanted to experience the Gordon River Cruise, and explore Strahan on Tasmania’s rugged West Coast, without having to rush to our next destination immediately after the half-day cruise. Spending an extra night in Strahan meant that we had the afternoon to explore the quiet town of Strahan. We also visited the absolutely magnificent Ocean Beach just ten minutes away from Strahan.
Up till this point at Strahan, we had only experienced overcast skies and intermittent drizzles. On the morning of the Gordon River Cruise, I woke up to yet another gloomy day with low-hanging clouds blanketing the entire sky, and with the constant threat of rain. It was frustrating, especially considering how promising the cruise looked online (and with how much we paid). Exasperated, I asked ChatGPT why was the weather permanently terrible here.
ChatGPT’s response?
“Short answer? Because Tasmania is basically a tiny mountains-and-wild-ocean punching bag at the bottom of the world. You didn’t choose Tasmania for perfect weather. You chose it for wild, unpredictable, cinematic nature. The weather is the atmosphere. And if it makes you feel better: Tasmanians complain about the weather more than anyone else on Earth.”
Miraculously, this changed my perspectives. I learnt that the West Coast of Tasmania is one of the wettest regions in Australia, partially due to “The Roaring Forties” – strong westerly winds which pick up massive amounts of moisture as they blow across the Southern Ocean. From Strahan, we would need to sail a staggering 15,000 km westwards before we would make landfall again, in Argentina. When these powerful weather systems finally hit Strahan, they create the erratic weather I was experiencing back then. I started to view the erratic weather as a feature of this wild island state, rather than a disappointment. I love superlatives, and the mighty natural phenomena characterizing the rugged West Coast satisfied that curiosity.
Much later on, I discovered that the Tasmania’s East Coast offered much milder weather, with the typical perfect summer beach holiday vibes – sunny blue skies, glistening turquoise waters, white sand beaches, and luxurious beachfront holiday homes.
In any case, as the locals quip, “if you don’t like the weather, wait fifteen minutes”. Strahan delivered, so did the weather (eventually).
Gordon River Cruise
The Gordon River Cruise is the main attraction at Strahan, and I would recommend experiencing this award-winning cruise as it provides an immersive and memorable experience of the dramatic West Coast. Ticket prices vary depending on season and seating type. For about SGD 160 per person, we bought window seats on the main deck of the very modern and comfortable Spirit of the Wild vessel. The cruise departs at 8:30am and returns at 3:00pm.
This link (not an affiliate link) leads to the official Gordon River Cruises website, where you can find out more about the experience, see the available options, and purchase your tickets.
The cruise departed from Strahan Harbour at 8:30am (you will need to reach 30 mins in advance), taking us across Macquarie Harbour to the notorious Hell’s Gate – the narrow and dangerous entrance leading out to the Southern Ocean. We then sailed south and entered the Gordon River, where the Spirit of the Wild vessel quietly glided amongst ancient rainforests and Huon pines. We got an opportunity to spend some time in the rainforests after disembarking at Heritage Landing, After a delightful buffet lunch, we made our last stop at Sarah Island – a historic convict settlement with fascinating stories and a dark history, before heading back to Strahan.
Ocean Beach
A short ten minutes drive from Strahan took us to the Ocean Beach Lookout, where we accessed the truly magnificent Ocean Beach. Spanning thirty kilometers on Tasmania’s West Coast and facing the Southern Ocean directly, I felt the unmistakable raw power of the Southern Ocean as I stood on the shores of Ocean Beach. Strong swells pounded the shore, and blustery winds whipped up ocean spray all around us. The sand dunes and shoreline on my left and right seemed to go on forever, and I felt like I was standing at the edge of the world. As I stared into the endless horizon, I was cognizant of the fact that if I were to embark on a straight line voyage from Ocean Beach, the next time I’d make landfall would be 15,000 km away in Argentina. Ocean Beach was nature at its rawest.
Despite its magnificence, Ocean Beach was largely empty, aside from another couple who were enjoying a quiet romantic walk on the beach, and a 4×4 which bounced its way across the sand. We had a great time frolicking on the sand before we decided to search for dinner back in Strahan.
We drove back out to Ocean Beach afterwards, with servings of chicken parmigiana and seafood linguini from the local tavern. We then had an unforgettable dinner at the edge of the very wild Ocean Beach, but simultaneously within the comfort of our motorhome, all while soaking in the dramatic cloudy sunset.
Strahan Waterfront / Regatta Point
Strahan is a small and quiet town, without the grandiose of Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour or Shanghai’s Bund. Yet, there is a certain old world charm to Strahan’s Waterfront, with its local taverns, bistros, and homely boutique hotels. Unlike in Hobart, you can stop almost anywhere and admire your surroundings, so take a short drive along the coast until you reach Regatta Point on the other side of the harbour.
There are couple of dining options around here, including the Westerly Seafood fish and chips kiosk, Tracks on Point cafe, fine dining at Risby’s Restaurant, or casual dining at the local hotels’ taverns.
Henty Dunes
The Henty Dunes are a series of massive sand dunes formed by the Roaring Forties (the strong westerly winds originating from the Southern Ocean). The sand dunes reach 30m at its highest and extends a few kilometers inland, with the carpark and picnic area a mere 15 minutes drive from Strahan.
We were thoroughly unprepared for the sheer size of Henty Dunes when it first came into view. It looked much bigger than what pictures would suggest. Standing at the bottom of Henty Dunes, it looked at least ten stories tall and 45 degrees steep and we couldn’t see what was beyond. Comfortingly, at least there were plenty of footprints (and sand tobogganing/sled tracks) to assure us that this majestic sand dune in front of us was scalable.
The sand was much softer than it looked and our feet sank deeper than we expected, just like fresh powder snow on a ski slope. Before long, my hiking boots were filled with sand. At some point, I got on all fours, and had to rest against a tree. I expected sweeping panoramic views of the Southern Ocean from the top of this sand dune, and I was simultaneously disheartened and impressed when there was nothing but mountains of sand stretching further than my eyes could see. I looked closely at the map and concluded that this would go on for several kilometers before reaching the ocean. We couldn’t afford to go all the way because Cradle Mountain beckoned. Nevertheless, it was fun being at the top of a massive sand dune with nothing but fine sand all around you. I couldn’t imagine how long it would have taken for nature to build these dunes. Pat also dropped her spectacles on her way up but fortunately, I found it while backtracking our way down.
Other things to do in Strahan
- West Coast Wilderness Railway: Other than the Gordon River Cruise, this is the other main attraction on the West Coast. This scenic steam train railway spans between Strahan and Queenstown, taking you deep into the remote wilderness of Tasmania’s West Coast. Several options are available, with varying starting points. Link to the official website
- Hogarth Falls Trail: During my time in Tasmania, I discovered the deeply ingrained hiking and bushwalking culture in Tasmania. On one end of the spectrum, you have the legendary six-day, 65km Overland Track (which I vow to do one day). On the other end, you have the 45 minutes, 2.4km hike to Hogarth Falls – one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks (which I also vow to do many of). The easy trail takes you to a small waterfall in the heart of the rainforest.
Day 3-4: Cradle Mountain National Park
Cradle Mountain is one of Tasmania’s most iconic attractions, offering some of the best hikes and most gorgeous landscapes in Tasmania.
The Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park covers a large area, but the main Cradle Mountain village is quite small, with only a few accommodation options and essential shops centered around the Cradle Mountain Visitor Center – the main entrance to the National Park. You will definitely be able to purchase all essential supplies at Cradle Mountain, but if you intend to whip up a 5-course dinner in your camp kitchen, I would suggest stocking up on supplies in the larger towns before you head over here. We stayed at the Cradle Mountain Discovery Resorts holiday park, just opposite the visitor center.
You can park for free at the massive carpark right outside the visitor center. Private vehicles are not allowed past a certain point, so you will have to purchase a shuttle bus pass for about AUD 15. Shuttle buses depart regularly from the visitor center, stopping at designated stops at Ranger Station, Snake Hill, Ronny Creek, and then Dove Lake Viewing Shelter. There are plenty of hikes, sights, and things to do around each of these stations, with some of these hikes connecting thes various stations. If you start your visit early, why take the bus when you can take a leisurely hike along a boardwalk connecting Ranger Station and Ronny Creek, and see some adorable wombats along the way. There are many maps at the visitor center and at Dove Lake Shelter which will help you visualize the area and plan your day.
Dove Lake Circuit
This is a moderately easy 6km circuit which will take you 2-3 hours to complete, starting and ending at the Dove Lake shuttle bus station. The Dove Lake Circuit is one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, and if for some reason you only have half an afternoon to explore Cradle Mountain (I sure hope not), I would highly recommend going for this very rewarding hike.
Upon alighting the shuttle bus, we first stepped foot into the very contemporary Dove Lake Viewing Shelter, with a very large map etched on the wall connecting the dots (literally) between the various areas and hikes within the Cradle Mountain area. This was the first time I gleaned an insight into Tasmania’s bushwalking culture, and the first time I read about the legendary multi-day Overland Track. The signs suggested that we record our names and trip intentions “for all walks over 2 hours”, presumably to ease any rescue efforts. Don’t worry, those (probably) wouldn’t be applicable to you on the very friendly Dove Lake Circuit.
Outside the viewing shelter, following the short path to Dove Lake led to one of the most impressive moments of our trip when Dove Lake and the surrounding mountains finally came into view. Heading clockwise, the hike around the perimeter of Dove Lake took us through mini-beaches and rainforests, before going up in elevation right up close beneath Cradle Mountain. Towards the end, we reached the famous boat shed at Dove Lake, sitting right at the lake’s edge on a rocky beach.
Returning back to the Dove Lake Viewing Shelter, we took the shuttle bus out and headed back to our campsite, where we prepared beef ravioli, boiled cabbage, and mushroom soup for a very well-balanced dinner.
Marions Lookout
Also starting at Dove Lake Viewing Shelter, this hike will take you up to Marions Lookout on one of the peaks near Cradle Mountain. Here, you will get an expansive bird’s eye view of the entire Dove Lake and the surrounding mountains, including Cradle Mountain which would almost be at eye level.
From the Dove Lake Boat Shed, there are two main options to get up (and down) to Marions Lookout. One is a moderately easy hike past Lake Lilla, Wombat Pool, and Crater Lake, before ascending to Marions Lookout. The other is a moderately difficult hike-climb hybrid route via the Marions Lookout Link Track which is much shorter but also much steeper. Both routes would take approximately 4-5 hours both ways. We climbed up the Marions Lookout Link Track and walked down the other way, for the best of both worlds.
We had much better weather on our second day in Cradle Mountain, with the classic summer combination of clear blue skies and fluffy white clouds. The Marions Lookout Link Track started off with a very gradual incline, before evolving into uneven stone stairs. At some point, we scrambled up rock faces and pulled ourselves up with metal chains. Our backs were facing Dove Lake along the ascent, but we took every opportunity to turn around to admire the picturesque scenes from the ever-changing vantage points along the way.
When we reached the top, we were rewarded with a breathtaking 360 degree view of Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain, and Crater Lake on the other side of Marions Lookout. From here, we could also see the entire Dove Lake Circuit which we conquered the previous day. We spent some time relaxing and snacking on the rocks, savouring the views and literal rainbows, before getting rudely interrupted by ominous dark clouds which were quickly rolling in from the back.
All of a sudden, the dark clouds blanketed the entire sky and it started raining. We quickly put on our disposable ponchos but for some reasons, my face and ears started to hurt – and I realized that we were getting pelted by ice. We decided to descend via the easier route past Crater Lake. Between knowing that we would be exposed to the elements with no shelter for the next two hours, and the very strong winds were blowing hard pieces of ice directly into our faces, I could only hope that we would make it back to the safety of the viewing shelter relatively unscathed. Fortunately, the perilous conditions subsided after awhile. We embraced the residual rain and happily hiked back to the viewing shelter.
Back at the viewing shelter, I then understood why the signs told us to register our details in the logbook. Besides, I’m sure that what we experienced barely scratches the surface of how dangerous the conditions can actually get. Thoroughly exhausted (but feeling accomplished), we made our way back to the visitor center and picked up some souvenirs before a much more relaxing second half of the day.
Devils @ Cradle
Devils @ Cradle is a wildlife sanctuary located just beyond the Cradle Mountain Visitor Center. You can park directly there without needing to take the shuttle bus. The sanctuary is named after the eponymous Tasmanian Devil, but also houses other indigenous wildlife like the Eastern Quoll and the Spotted-tail Quoll. Depending on the season, there are various tour options available at Devils @ Cradle, ranging from after-dark feeding tours to joey encounters.
We opted for the sunset feeding tour, and we definitely got our money’s worth with the number of Tasmanian Devils we saw and how close we managed to get to them. We saw these cute little marsupials viciously tear into slabs of raw meat, and heard them screech at each other. We were introduced to quolls, which despite looking like they were straight out of a Disney movie, were just as carnivorous as the Tasmania Devils.
If you spent a good part of your day tackling the various hikes around Cradle Mountain, I would recommend visiting Devils @ Cradle for the perfect relaxing end to your evening. That’s exactly what we did, before heading back to our motorhome for another well-balanced ravioli, pastrami, and spinach dinner.
Other things to do in Cradle Mountain:
- Cradle Mountain Visitor Center: Remember to spend some time in the visitor center. This is where you will pick up your shuttle bus tickets and park pass if you haven’t already purchased them. Other than being aesthetically pleasing, the visitor center also provides valuable maps and information for you to plan your trip, and to better appreciate the Cradle Mountain area. Pick up a souvenir or two, or have lunch at the cafe.
- Enchanted Walk: Another one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks, this family-friendly circuit will take you only 20-30 minutes to complete. The starting point of this walk is very near the Cradle Mountain Interpretation Center, where you can park directly at without using the shuttle bus. As its name would suggest, this short walk takes you through an enchanted forest along Pencil Pine Creek, where you will also see waterfalls and wildlife all around you.
- Cradle Valley Boardwalk: This is a leisurely 5.5km walk along a boardwalk which takes about 2 hours one-way. The boardwalk connects the Ranger Station shuttle bus stop to the Ronny Creek stop, with views of Cradle Valley and Cradle Mountain in the distance, and with Wombats common seen grazing alongside the boardwalk.
Day 5: Launceston
Launceston is the second largest city in Tasmania, with a cozy blend of culture, food, and nature. Our ten-day itinerary could only accommodate half a day in Launceston en-route to Bay of Fires on the East Coast. We penciled in Cataract Gorge and Bridestowe Lavender Estate – two of the most premier attractions in the Launceston area, and If you have the luxury of a longer trip, do spend a night or two in Launceston, which is also the perfect base to explore Northern Tasmania.
Cataract Gorge
Cataract Gorge’s dramatic cliffs and flowing rivers were impressive. However, what was truly remarkable was how this beloved natural wonder seamlessly blended with the lives of ordinary Tasmanians – with its free-for-public swimming pool, family-operated scenic chairlift, various beautiful cliffside walking trails, and its resident peacocks and wallabies free roaming the Victorian-era park grounds. Cataract Gorge is simply a local park for locals to unwind and relax, except it happens to be a 65 million-year old gorge in the heart of Launceston, with gorgeous views and quiet tranquility around every corner.
The Cataract Gorge Scenic Chairlift is located right at the entrance to the park. One way/round trip tickets go for around 12/20 AUD. I would suggest taking a one-way journey on the chairlift the moment you enter Cataract Gorge. This 457 meters journey takes approximately ten minutes, giving you an bird’s eye view of Cataract Gorge and its grounds. You’d first see the beloved free outdoor pool on a very well-manicured lawn, before travelling over a natural river basin with the Alexandra suspension bridge on your left and the South Esk River on your right – both set against the backdrop of the magnificent Cataract Gorge.
Upon disembarkation of the chairlift, we were greeted by a pride of free-roaming peacocks completely unbothered by our presence. On this side of the park was Cliff Grounds – a Victorian-era garden with shaded lawns, a quaint playground and rotunda, wild wallabies and more peacocks. From here, you can embark on the various walking trails in Cataract Gorge. We started with Cataract Walk, an easy paved 1km cliffside route along the South Esk River, which brought us up close to the rock walls on both sides of the river. We then turned back to do the First Basin Loop, with views of the chairlift overhead, and which took us across the Alexander suspension bridge, before looping back to the swimming pool. I would highly recommend having a picnic on this lawn. We spent some time there soaking in the relaxing vibe of this local hangout, running in the children’s hamster wheel and taking the funicular lift up, before heading off to our next stop – a massive Coles supply run.
Bridestowe Lavender Estate
About one hour away from Cataract Gorge is the picture-perfect Bridestowe Lavender Estate – the largest lavender farm in the Southern Hemisphere. The months of December and January are when the “Festival of Flowers” is held – and this is when you will (should) be able to see the never-ending lavender fields in its purple full bloom glory. The entrance fee during these two months is 20 AUD, with free entry to the (unbloomed) lavender fields for the rest of the year.
Unfortunately for us, an unusually cold start of summer delayed the lavender bloom. The staff manning the entrance booth gave us a half-price offer, and we decided to give it a shot (we would have gone in either way). The lavender fields, although overwhelmingly green with only an almost unnoticeable tinge of purple, were beautiful in their own way. Especially with the backdrop of rolling hills and mountain peaks. We also had the luxury of being the only few visitors in this massive estate. If anything, we had a romantic and comfortable stroll through the lavender fields, occasionally making a brief stop to exercise our imagination to its fullest (with Gemini’s assistance).
The gift shop and cafe were memorable attractions on their own, with an unbelievable range of lavender products – from lavender oil to unique flower tea concoctions, and from bath soaps to aroma candles. We shared a lavender ice cream cone and hugged the life-sized purple bear mascot in the corner of the gift shop, before concluding our Launceston adventures.
Click here for Part 2 of the itinerary, which covers the Bay of Fires, Freycinet National Park, and Port Arthur/Tasman National Park.
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